A rainbow of flowers at the Shikisai Hills in Biei
When I signed up for this Hokkaido tour, all I wanted was to give my eyes and nose a treat. I was all geared up to be mesmerized by the beautiful lavenders for which this northern Japanese island is famous for and be intoxicated by the flower’s fragrance. As I am retired now, I have all the time in the world to smell the flowers. And people tell me this is the place to do it. It turned out to be a long wait. Only on the fifth day were we taken to the big flower gardens or farms. Two big ones, in fact. For the first four days, we were taken on a tour of the other attractions in Hokkaido. The unexpected bonus was that I experienced a wonderful food adventure instead. My taste buds were spoilt rotten, so to speak. Food, as many of my friends will testify, is very low on my priority. To my horror, and great surprise, I found that I actually enjoyed the food.
One of the great meals we had on this trip. This was our lunch at the Otaru Seaport Market
Take a look at the other great food we had:
Our trip to Hokkaido started at an unearthly hour. We had to get up at 2.30am to meet our GTT tour leader Kevin Yap at KLIA at 4.40am. The journey to its capital city Sapporo took more than 12 hours as we had to transit in Narita airport for immigration and Customs clearance. That was when I encountered the first of my two scares. After going through all the checks, I was settling down in the departure lounge when I realized that my iPad was missing. A pleasant surprise awaited me when I rushed back to the security screening area. There, waiting for me, was this smiling and slightly amused security officer holding my iPad.
When I was leaving Japan too, I had left my bag at a restaurant in the airport departure lounge. I realised it was missing only after 20 minutes, and again, I found it right where I had left it.
The honesty and decency of the Japanese never cease to amaze me.
On my last trip to Japan, I had dropped my iPhone at a comics shop, and to my relief, recovered it at the counter. The manager had found it on the floor and kept it for the owner.
Oh yes, food! On arrival at Sapporo airport, we were told that dinner was not on the schedule. Many of us did not read the fine print on the handout given to us. We had to find our own food for the first night. What’s more, we had to wait another hour at the Sapporo airport for four other members of our group who were on a different connecting flight from Tokyo. There were 24 of us from Malaysia. Our tour leader, Kevin, suggested we eat at the airport. He recommended rice burgers at the MOS Burger or the beef rice at Yoshinoya. I was in no mood to experiment, so we stuck to rice. My wife does not take beef, so we had pork rice. Quite tasty!
I wonder what rice burgers are like.
Odori Park, the venue of many big festivals, and the iconic Sapporo TV Tower in the background
Photos of Odori Park:
Photos of "red brick" building:
We were met at the bus by our "local" tour guide, Sam. Acturally he is a Malaysian but he knows Japan very well as he has been in this country for 15 years and has settled down with a Japanese wife.
He is a jovial guy. His jokes must be very funny as the other members were always laughing away. Unfortunately, all his jokes were lost on me. That's because he speaks mostly Mandarin and Cantonese. Once in a while, the throws in a bit of English, minus the jokes.
Our first stop in Sapporo was Odori Park, located in the heart of the city. It is a popular gathering place for locals and is the venue for big festivals. Our guide encouraged us to come back at night to enjoy the beer from the Oktoberfest celebration. I am not sure how many took up the offer. I was told the park is especially beautiful in spring when you can enjoy the cherry blossoms. It is summer now, so we had to make do with other flowers planted in the many colourful patches all around the park. Still a sight to behold. Overlooking the park is the iconic Sapporo TV Tower and you can have a great view of the city from its observation deck. If you are into history, you should visit the former Hokkaido Government Office, a walking distance from the park. The classic red-brick building houses a museum with exhibits of Hokkaido history. Now for the real good stuff, or should it be good food stuff? Our lunch was the normal shabu shabu (steamboat to me) but if you are willing to part with ¥12,000 (that’s RM440 ), you can get a taste of the famous Kobe Beef. A thin slice of it, anyway. A few took up the offer and one of them told me why: “It was on my bucket list,” he said.
I checked. It was not on mine. If I had a wish, it would be that I was a kid again as I stepped into the chocolate factory at the Shiroi Koibito Park.
Sweet temptation. Chocolates and sweets everywhere at the Shiroi Koibito Park
A musical "animated puppet" show comes on at the top of every hour
Photos of the chocolate factory:
This is truly a paradise for children. There are chocolates and sweets everywhere, in all shapes, sizes and colours. I resisted the temptation and only caved in where ice cream was concerned. I was told the ice cream in Hokkaido is very good. “So make sure you eat ice cream everyday while you are there,” said a friend. This was a good place to start but I did not take it every day.
I had ice cream a total of 4 times during this trip, the second time at a grand buffet at Rusutsu Resort, then at Otaru as I wanted to try out the famous rainbow ice cream and finally at Farm Tomita while admiring the flowers there. For some strange reason, dinner was not scheduled for the second day, too.
Maybe because the tour organizers realize they cannot tear away the shoppers from their shopping, first at the Tanukikoji Shopping Arcade and later at the Pivot building which houses Uniqlo, GU and Tower Records.
Our tour guide Sam did lead us to Ramen Alley where you can find the best ramen in town.
The first shop was supposed to be good because Anthony Bourdain ate there.
However, the queue was too long, so we went into one which had seats available.
The most popular item was ramen in miso soup, with your choice of meat.
I am not sure how good it is but I like it.
Picking berries at Takashinakankokaju Orchards
Photos of the orchard:
Our taste buds had another experience the next day.
The first stop was at the Asahi brewery, where at the end of the tour of the plant, we were each entitled to 3 glasses of beer. Take your pick of Super Dry, Premium or its dark beer.
I was impressed by the uniform of the workers. The material for each uniform was made from 10 plastic bottles.
After another round of shopping at Mitsui factory outlet, we were taken to a family-run food franchise, Steak & Hamburg, where we had chicken steak.
For afternoon tea, we had to work for our meal but it was fun.
We picked berries at the Takshinakankokaju Orchards. You can eat all the berries you pick. You just cannot take any out of the orchard.
The hotel we stayed that night was big. The lobby of Kitayuzawa Morino Soraniwa Hotel stretched for quite a distance and was the venue of a children's bingo game. So you can imagine how lively or noisy the place was.
The rooms were so big that you had the beds on one side and a Japanese setting of tatami mats and a low table on the other side.
Of course, the sauna baths were huge, too.
This was the only time I decided to have a go at this favourite Japanese past-time even though they are available in all the hotels we stayed in.
Hotel room with a Japanese touch
Robot receptionist at Kitayuzawa Morino Soraniwa Hotel: "My name is Pepper. Welcome to the hotel. It's summer. Going somewhere. Get your info from the robot"
The hotels we stayed in:
Jigokudani or Hell Valley, the site of volcanic activity
Photos of Hell Valley:
Ever wonder what Hell is like? Well, people in Noboribetsu say this former volcanic crater with its bubbling water and hot steam gushing out from the ground conjures up an image of hell and demons.
Hell Valley, covering over 11 hectares, was created by the eruption of Mt Kuttara. The surface temperatures here can range from 75 to 85 degrees Celcius.
If you have the stamina, you can explore the many walking paths around this region leading to shrines, hot springs and geysers.
A trip to Noboribetsu Date Jidaimura gives a glimpse of Japanese life during the Edo period, described as 250 years of the most peaceful and energetic time in Japanese history.
This theme park takes you back 400 years to experience the Japanese spirit and way of life then.
There are four shows daily at this theme park and the dialogue are all in Japanese. The brief synopsis before the start of each show will enable you to understand three of the shows -- the outdoor action show, the Oiran show and the Ninja show.
You are advised to skip the comedy show as it has a lot of dialogue.
The Oiran show involves audience participation and a volunteer is needed to play the role of the shogun. Don't worry if you don't understand what is being said. You will be guided in your role by a lady who appears to speak a bit of English.
In between shows, you can visit the places of interest like the replica residence of Kojuro Katakura , the right hand man of a famous warrior, Masamune Date.
If you dare, step into the Ninja Maze or the House of Monsters.
The shows at the theme park:
1. Outdoor action show
2. Oiran show ... recreation of the life of the wealthy in Edo
2a. Oiran show (contd)
3. Ninja show ... thrilling battle between ninjas
Photos of Edo theme park:
Lunch was at a restaurant opposite the entrance of the theme park.
Guess what we had? Korean barbeque. Why not?
I think it is everyone's favourite, even in Japan.
On the way to our hotel, we stopped at Fukidashi Park for another treat.
It is the sweetest water you will ever taste, said our guide, Sam.
How true. The water is so cool and refreshing.
This spring water, which flows from Mt Yotei, has been listed as one of the best spring water spots in the country.
It is so good that many people come here not only to drink straight from the spring but come armed with big bottles to take the water back with them.
There is a mini waterfall which flows into a pond, beautifully decorated with bridges and pavilions.
Photos of the fresh spring water at Fukidashi Park:
A bigger treat was waiting for us at our hotel, the Rusutsu Resort.
This place reminds me of Genting with its carousel, mini trains and other entertainment outlets. The only thing missing was the casino.
Besides a big buffet spread, there were two shows lined up for the night. One was a 20-minute fireworks display and the other a laser light show entitled Kamori Wonder Lights: An Expanse of Light - Hokkaido.
There was a long queue eager to get in for this buffet, which according to Sam was very expensive.
I should have at least sampled some of the other food but unfortunately I was only interested in the king crab.
For me, it's eat all you can, the crabs and ice cream.
And that's what I did.
I love the fireworks but was a bit disappointed with the laser show even though it involved a new technique called Projection Mapping where the images are projected on the hotel glass and can be seen from both inside and outside.
The fireworks display at the Rusutsu Resort grounds
Chapter One of the laser light show: The story of the Ocean
The Otaru Canal, once an important waterway, now a romantic rendezvous
The Otaru Canal was our first stop as we made our way into this seaport. This used to be an important waterway, and was used to transport goods from large vessels to warehouses along the canal.
Now the warehouses have been converted to museums, restaurants and shops and the path along the canal is reserved for artists during the day and is lit up at night with gas lamps, providing a romantic atmosphere.
It is even more beautiful in winter with the stone warehouses draped in snow.
Now here's a unique treat. You can get free coffee in this special shop in Otaru, and on top of that, you can take away the cup, too.
There's more. You are also allowed refills.
You only have to pay if you choose a different cup. We wanted a Hello Kitty cup, so we paid ¥70 (RM2.50).
Someone asked me: "Do they wash the cups for you, too?"
No, you have to do that yourself.
Free one, buy one. The cup on the right is free and we paid ¥70 for the Hello Kitty cup.
A walk along the famous Otaru Canal
Photos of Otaru:
We were bowled over at the music box museum as everything on display was so pretty. The glass products were also very impressive.
I was attracted to a glass pen and bought one for ¥2,800 (about RM102).
We also had to try the famous Hokkaido cream puff and the rainbow ice cream.
Unfortunately, we were not brave enough to try the 7-layer (or colours) ice cream. We decided to play safe and go for the 5-layer one, paying
¥500 (RM18) for each.
The sound of musical boxes and glass wind chimes in the music box museum
The unique choo choo clock
It is seafood lunch at the Seaport Market. The restaurant is located a floor above the wet market where fresh seafood are sold.
Nine members of the group decided to buy a live king crab to supplement the lunch provided.
They paid just under ¥40,000 (RM1,460) for it.
We just had as much king crabs as we could eat the night before. Why would they want to pay so much for it now?
"This is a live king crab. It's different," said one of them.
I don't think i could tell the difference. But that's just me
Anyway, I feel our seafood lunch of scallop, fish and seafood soup was good enough for me.
Flowers, flowers everywhere at Shikisai Hills in Biei
Photos of Shikisai Hills in Biei:
Finally, we are going to see the flowers. Our first stop was at the Shikisai Hills farm in Biei.
This is a big spread, so if you don't feel like walking, you can be driven around in a cart at a cost of ¥500 (RM18) each or ¥800 (RM29) for two.
Did I mention that it was very hot? Temperatures were sometimes hotter than what we normally experience in Malaysia.
A member of our group was heard mumbling: Why do I pay money to suffer this heat? I can get this weather in Malaysia.
But there is no way you can see such beautiful lavenders back home. Or in such quantity.
The flowers, in their rainbow of colours, stretched as far as the eye can see.
Overhead, the dark blue sky added to the splendour of postcard scenery.
As I went up and down the huge farm, I took down the names of the flowers.
Well here they are: Plumed Cockscomb, Dianthus, Snapdragons, Liatris Spicata, Petunia, Zinnia, Marigolds and Silver Dust.
I also found out that there are 1,001 uses for these flowers besides being just a thing of beauty.
I stopped by in the gift shop and saw that the flowers can be used to make hand cream, face cream, cleanser, soap and even, fragrant pillows.
Lavender fields at Farm Tomita in Furano
Photos of Farm Tomita in Furano:
Lunch was the normal buffet. The extra for the day was the melon. You can eat all you want.
That is the other advice I was given: You must try the Hokkaido melon.
Well I did. Lots of them.
And the melons are not cheap either. I saw a shop selling one slice (or one eighth of the fruit) for ¥300 (RM11).
From Biei, we travelled to Furano, the home of Farm Tomita which was set up way back in 1958.
This is a large farm, and it is divided into three sections, of which two are on hillslopes.
By this time, the heat was getting to me and I was in no shape to move around the farm.
I retired to a covered shade to admire the flowers spread out across the land in front of the building.
In the distance, I could see a train making its way across the fields.
This train service links the two flower growing areas, Biei and Furano, providing another way for visitors to admire the flowers.
A view from the Farm Tomita buidling ... see the train crossing the fields in the horizon
And for the grand finale, we had a magnificent dinner of king crabs, giant abalone, scallop, smoked salmon and crab soup porridge.
It's a great way to end our trip to Hokkaido.
Our guide, Sam, advised us to come back in winter.
"It is a different kind of beauty," he said
For me, it will be a good treat only if I can overcome my fear of the cold.
The 24 members of our GTT group which visited Hokkaido from July 24 to July 31, 2018